Glamour seems to be the theme of New York Fashion Week. From oodles of sequins and sparkles to evening slink by the runway mile, vamps, vixens, and red carpet-ready femme fatales are slated to come out in droves come Fall ’15. To start, Diane von Furstenberg, who is consistently supremely glamorous in her own right, put her focus on seventies-disco glam, perhaps consciously harking back to the days when she held court at Studio 54. The show kicked off with Kendall Jenner in a bodice-hugging wrap dress and escalated into mean pantsuits, some pinstriped and others boldly hued, for a coy nod to Bianca Jagger; racy red lace dresses (a mini look with a fur-lined, robe-inspired jacket was especially eye-catching); and too many plunging V-necklines, peekaboo lace panels, and pairs of Swiss-dotted sheer tights to count. Her take on the full-length slipdress (another key trend for the new season) is especially seductive. DVF may have discovered her Fall ’15 girl in the boudoir, but make no mistake about it: this character is most content in the nightclub.
Almost every season, DKNY aims to define, or redefine, the “New York uniform,” and while the brand’s pendulum has swung from the totally sporty to the rather sleek in the past, this collection is neither and both of those things at the same time. Moreover, it’s high-energy glam! As the models bounced down the runway, minimal V-neck sweaters and chunky knits quickly gave way to amped-up clothes that can effortlessly tread from daytime to night. Asymmetric skirts in a wide variety of lengths make for an offbeat vibe that also says, “I have legs and they need to move,” while sweatshirt-inspired fabrication puts a dynamic spin on pullovers and flirty A-line dresses. And then there are the more conventional forms of glam: sheeny satin panels and bejeweled strips of embellishments popping up in unexpected places, like as a partial sash on a crisp white shirt or clustered along the closure of a bomber jacket. Because what good is all that moving around if you’re not going to sparkle while you shake?
Finally, Thakoon elected a glitzy brand of glam, one that was inspired by Oscar Wilde and his narcissistic alter ego, Dorian Gray. The literary muses (one real, one fictional) translated to a palette of rich, autumnal colors (burnt rust, pumpkin orange, chestnut brown) and an even richer array of textures (shaggy furs, tapestry weaves, plush velvets). Add to the mix a mélange of floral, geometric, and stripy patterns, plus heady lace appliqué and beaded embellishments, along with elements of micro-pleating and obi-belting, and you’ve got day-to-evening glitz with an eclectic edge. Not for the faint of risk, this is bohemian glamour for those with an optimistic flair for the eccentric.