Modern but reminiscent of the past. Prim but not prissy. Crisp and clean but rich and wild. Oh, and brimming with unadulterated beauty. Delpozo is all of these things and more, and their breathtaking Spring ’15 collection brings all their trademarks of visual splendor and expert craftsmanship to new heights. In just a couple short years, designer Joseph Font has thoroughly invigorated the relaunched Spanish label, and this is his best showing yet.
Folds reminiscent of origami, impossibly rich jacquards, intricate tropical patterns, and floral accents more like sculpture than your typical embellishments gave way to bold silhouettes. With exaggerated peplums, avant-garde culotte shorts (that actually look flattering), and hemlines that seem to defy gravity, Delpozo’s magical play on shapes just gets better and better. Everyone is doing crop tops now, but theirs are so covetable they’ll motivate you to do those extra reps of crunches (and bicep curls, for that matter)
When it comes to the evening looks, Delpozo’s fully bloomed folds and heavily detailed explosions of sheer tulle aren’t for the faint of heart but they are for the confident and romantic. This is an ethereal, almost untouchable brand of femininity.
Donna Karan’s show notes gave a simple instruction: “Paint the town with urban chic.” For her Spring ’15 collection, Donna embraced both the abstract art world and the hourglass curves of the female form, sending super-sophisticated gallery girls and cutting-edge city-slickers of the artsy variety down her concrete-paved runway. If there is any mistake about her elevated sense of edginess, just look at those sky-high hats (Pharrell Williams in his Vivienne Westwood topper ring a bell?).
Elements of wild brushstrokes, graffiti, stamps, and collage made their way into the body-hugging pencil skirts, belted cocktail dresses, ruched bustiers, and blousy, cropped pants. These dynamic, layered patterns will instantly transfix; each piece makes for a miniature visual feast that brings to mind Basquiat in the ‘80s, when throwing paint in your loft gave way to high art. Donna balances it all out with plenty of cinched waists and enough pattern-free looks to keep the mood tempered. Rarely does such exuberance come out of a relatively muted color palette. Evidently, Donna’s muse – the very womanly woman – serves her well.
Feeling vacation-ready upon catching many of the Spring ’15 shows? Lighthearted and upbeat, Sophie Theallet is a few steps ahead of you. The designer was inspired by the music and colors of Montego Bay, Jamaica, where Marilyn Monroe was known to vacation and where Sophie traveled with a friend this past year. But she didn’t go your basic, bohemian, beach-babe route. By blending tropical flavor with the inherent chic of her Parisian background, she delivered a relaxed yet elegant collection that oozes joie de vivre. She also shows you don’t have to reveal it all – just a subtle slit here or a flash of clavicle there – to connote warm-weather vibrance.
So what to pack on your next jaunt (or wear when you’re feeling like bringing some pep to your city life)? Multicolored strappy sandals, the result of a collaboration with Jean-Michel Cazabat, and thick leather belts with swirls and swerves of punchy colorblocking. Swingy dresses and mix-and-match separates with punchy, graphic prints. Evening gowns of liquid-like satin and wonderfully ornate prints with deceptively simple knotted necklines. Thin, wear-everywhere cardigans and lightly pleated skirts cut to catch the breeze whether you’re on the pavement or in the sand. Looks like Sophie Theallet just planned your spring wardrobe.