My most highly anticipated show of the week did not disappoint. On the contrary, Peter Copping’s debut at the house of Oscar was an elegant affair. To say Mr. Copping has grand shoes to fill is an immense understatement. The former designer of Nina Ricci was hand-appointed by the master of beauty himself. He took the helm as Creative Director shortly after the beloved Mr. de la Renta’s passing in October, leaving a mere three months to put this collection together.
Dark, smoky mirror and lush velvet benches set the tone upon arrival, and on each seat lay a note from the designer, in which he expressed his regret for never being able to work personally with Oscar and how he hopes to honor the great’s legacy. All of the elements were in place: the flouncy skirts and multi-stripe tweeds, the bouclé jackets and glittering jewels, the zesty yet classic prints and ladylike silhouettes, the cashmere knit and femininely cinched waists, the embellished, fine merino cardigans and saucy organza party dresses, and the right notes were struck.
Daywear arrived in the form of glamorous jaguar patchwork mink, while vivacious floral motifs were welcomed for evening. A techno wool cocktail dress, in ultraviolet with taffeta and organza embroidery, has an air of flirty youthfulness about it while remaining sophisticated. The slips of chiffon and silk ribbon gowns look just as good from the back as they do from the front. Tiers of layered taffeta, flashes of shimmering gold and black jacquard, ostrich-feather embroidery, and explosive duchessina gowns in opulent jewel tones: Copping’s keen eye for true femininity and his appreciation of a classic breed of polish will serve him well. While more exuberance can be expected as he settles into his new role, he has succeeded in setting a befitting and most respectful tone. Welcome to the new era at Oscar de la Renta.