My favorite dressmaker may just become my favorite bag maker yet. Watch this video I made backstage of the Classico bag. The man is pushing envelopes, literally. These envelope-style bags constructed of origami folds (fastened by a single magnet) allow you to play with and change up the flap of the bag at your whim. Essentially, the bags transform in the most organic of ways. Ahhh! It’s such a simple revelation, yet no one has ever thought of it.
That is the brilliance of Mouret in a nutshell: If you’ve had the pleasure of wearing any of his dresses (I have dozens, literally), then you are well familiar with his unique ability to translate the simplest of designs into the most creative of expressions. With his Fall 2014 collection, he has outdone himself. Crediting his 50 years on Earth as the inspiration, the collection marks a personal journey through his own legacy. It is a definition, a description of himself. The concept goes beyond the way things look; Roland got technical, breaking down every minute detail of the way clothes are constructed, and he managed to advance his skills in the process.
Speaking of which, he went for Constructivist effects in a true sense of the term, by way of impeccably executed collage and patchwork techniques. Each ensemble is a wearable work of art, and Mouret has single-handedly brought new meaning to the concept of layering.
The impeccable origami folds and geometric details carried through to the ready-to-wear, from the sliced double-face skirts (need!) to the gridded dresses and woven checkered patterns to mega-bold black collars, the perfect punctuation for such a modern vision. Strategic jolts of color make for a strong sort of beauty, one that’s not about frills or ruffles. Who knew hard angles could achieve such an air of seduction? A surprising standout: a pair of (deceptively) basic black trousers with feathers adhered to them – the feathers are meant to achieve an “ephemeral quality,” according to Roland, and that they do, even though they’re highly permanent, thank goodness.
Delightfully stiff cropped tops with leather accents and slit-front skirts with loads of movement will make you want to rethink your cocktail uniform. And, of course, it would not be a Roland Mouret show without a body-skimming dress or two (after giving birth, there was nothing that made me feel better than fitting back into my Roland Mouret dresses!). Topped with bags worn like jewelry over the chest, I have to say crossbody chains have never looked so good!
Elements of global exoticism, as well as the classicism for which he’s known: this is a blend that surpasses trends and time, much like Roland Mouret himself. After the show, I finally met my longtime hero, and he is charming as I’ve envisioned on our many imaginary lunch and shopping dates.
P.S. Roland Mouret boutique on Madison avenue will open on June 15th. I’ll be first in line!