Some of us never really leave high school, or at least never shed the nostalgia that sticks around long after. But when Viktor & Rolf think back to post-elementary education, it takes on new meaning altogether. The theme of their Spring 2014 collection is rebellious schoolgirls (in case you couldn’t take a hint, the show was set to a cover of Pink Floyd’s “Another Brick in the Wall”), and Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren went full-force with it. Their boyish bad girls had messenger-inspired book bags tossed over their shoulders and clutched in their hands, and Peter Pan collars and crested blazers abounded. Surprisingly, none of the avant-garde designs we’ve come to expect from the duo were present. Instead, this a straightforward collection, highly wearable and very covetable.
Think uniforms deconstructed – the coolest senior girls in school cutting last period, rubbing grease through their nonchalantly slicked back hair, and cutting up their prim loafers. A palette of traditionally academic colors paved the way for intricate pleating techniques and prim blazers gone wild, from the wickedly asymmetrical to the supremely shrunken to the extremely color-blocked. Pinafores and ladylike sheaths fell askew over lengthy skirts and roomy Bermuda shorts. Argyle, plaid, varsity-inspired appliqués, and a smattering of delicate yet jagged studs: all these elements are enough to make a good girl go bad – and mad for Viktor & Rolf – next season.